Indigenous Chef Sean Sherman Explores North American Foodways

Minneapolis, MN – From the Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota, where his childhood unfolded in the 1970s and 80s, James Beard award-winning chef Sean Sherman remembers a culinary landscape rich with history and spiritual connection. An Oglala Lakota member, Sherman’s earliest food memories were shaped by traditional practices, such as preparing wasná – a nourishing snack crafted from pounded dried bison and tart chokeberries. Alongside his cousins, he often embarked on hunts for pheasant and grouse, or gathered wild berries and Thíŋpsiŋla, the wild prairie turnip that serves as a fundamental Lakota food.

Yet, these idyllic experiences of harvesting and hunting were frequently overshadowed by the stark realities of colonialism. Sherman recounts a common experience shared by many Native families: a reliance on government-issued provisions like canned beef and blocks of processed cow cheese, which sharply contrasted with their ancestral diets. This profound dichotomy forms a central narrative that Sherman, co-founder of the acclaimed Minneapolis-based Indigenous restaurant Owamni, shares within the pages of his new cookbook, which spotlights Indigenous cuisines across the vast expanse of North America.

A Culinary Journey Rooted in Tradition

The Great Plains, stretching from the Canadian provinces of Alberta and Saskatchewan down to Texas, once teemed with vast herds of bison. Tatanka, the Lakota term for bison, held immense significance, profoundly influencing the religion and mythology of Native peoples. However, the arrival of European settlers brought devastating changes. Much of the region’s grasslands succumbed to agricultural development and overgrazing, while relentless overhunting in the late 1800s pushed the majestic bison to the brink of extinction.

In recent decades, a powerful movement to reintroduce bison to the Great Plains has gained momentum. These vital conservation efforts have not only helped restore ecological balance but have also enabled Native American communities to reconnect with and revitalize their traditional food practices, fostering a return to ancestral ways of sustenance and cultural identity.

“Turtle Island”: A Comprehensive Culinary Atlas

Published on November 11, Sherman’s latest literary endeavor, titled “Turtle Island: Foods and Traditions of the Indigenous Peoples of North America,” offers an expansive exploration. The book delves into the spiritual, historical, and cultural essence of Indigenous foodways, not only within the Great Plains but also across a dozen other distinct regions of the continent. The title itself, “Turtle Island,” is a meaningful reference to the name for North America in several Indigenous cultures, underscoring the book’s deep respect for Native heritage.

Co-authored by Tlingit journalist Kate Nelson and experienced cookbook writer Kristin Donnelly, “Turtle Island” masterfully intertwines culinary instruction with rich narratives. It serves as more than just a recipe collection; it is a cultural tapestry, weaving together stories of resilience, tradition, and the enduring connection between Indigenous peoples and their ancestral lands. Through its pages, readers are invited on a journey that celebrates the diversity and depth of Native American culinary traditions, providing invaluable insights into a food system that predates colonial influence and continues to thrive today.

Source: The Guardian